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Fixing water damaged speaker cabs. [message #93910] Sun, 23 December 2007 06:26 Go to next message
Kim is currently offline  Kim
Messages: 1246
Registered: October 2005
Senior Member
We had a bizarre storm or three in Melbourne last week, and in amongst them
a room at my brother's place was flooded fairly badly, in amongst which,
some speaker cabinets got rather wetter than ideal at the bottom.

It's chipboard and it's done the chipboard thing. In my opinion they're not
bad speakers though and if we can patch them at least to work correctly they'd
be worth saving.

Basically I'm after glue or filler info. We've got to fill 1/4 inch in places
so something silicon-like is probably ideal. Whatever they use on speaker
cabinets that is flexible enough to withstand vibration, air pressure, and
provide a strong bond all at once. That stuff.

What is it? ;o)

As always, any advice welcome... well, except clothing fashion, not that
you dress badly or anything. I mean I don't even know who I'm speaking to.
I seem to have forgotten I'm still speaking too. DOH!

;o)

Cheers,
Kim.
Re: Fixing water damaged speaker cabs. [message #93915 is a reply to message #93910] Sun, 23 December 2007 10:13 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Neil is currently offline  Neil
Messages: 1645
Registered: April 2006
Senior Member
There's a product called Elmer's Professional Wood Filler
(do they sell that brand over there?), or I think they may have
changed the name to Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler.
It really works great, I've used it on a couple of things like
doors that had dings & deep scratches, and on one cabinet door
that had one of the side wing panels broken off & had to be
re-glued, but also had some smaller pieces due to the break
that had cracked/split & needed to to be refilled... worked
really well, just fill, sand and (in this case) prime &
paint... you can't even tell.

It comes in tubes or plastic canisters, depending on the size
you need.

There are also things like wood stabilizers that are
specifically designed for rotted wood, but those are more
liquid in state - they're kinda more like a glue, I guess.
Dunno if you want to check into those, too?

HOWEVER, here's an easy homebrew remedy if you have access to a
chunk of scrap wood and a electric sander:

Get a paper cup & hold it underneath the drum sander to catch
the wood dust from the peice of scrap wood as it comes off
the drum... or if you have a circular sander or other kind of
hand sander just set the cup down on the ground & try & hold
the wood & sander so a least the majority of the wood dust is
being caught in the cup. then get some regular two-part epoxy,
mix it up, and as you're mixing it, pour in some of the
wood dust - about half of the total volume of the epoxy mix -
and there's your filler! Just don't use a scrap of plywood
for this since you'll be sanding some of the plywood glue into
the mix, as well. Hardwood works best for this, but you can
also use some pine or whatever you guys use for regular
construction lumber over there.

And actually, this method is ideal for fixing dings & gouges in
hardwoods, too, because if you've got a mahogany or rosewood
guitar/table/whatever, you may NEVER find a wood filler that'll
match the color exactly, but if you can find a piece of scrap
of the same kind of wood from yur local hardwood supplier, you
can mix the dust in with clear epoxy & create a repair that you
can't even tell is there. For hardwoods with streaks of color,
etc, you can get a chunk of a lighter & also a darker hardwood,
do the majority color first, fill, then let it dry 'til it's
in a sort of "gelatin" state, then use an Exacto knife to carve
out a bit of the filler along the grain's streaked lines, let
it dry all the way & fill those areas with the other color to
match the streaks!

Neil



"Kim" <hiddensounds@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>We had a bizarre storm or three in Melbourne last week, and in amongst them
>a room at my brother's place was flooded fairly badly, in amongst which,
>some speaker cabinets got rather wetter than ideal at the bottom.
>
>It's chipboard and it's done the chipboard thing. In my opinion they're
not
>bad speakers though and if we can patch them at least to work correctly
they'd
>be worth saving.
>
>Basically I'm after glue or filler info. We've got to fill 1/4 inch in places
>so something silicon-like is probably ideal. Whatever they use on speaker
>cabinets that is flexible enough to withstand vibration, air pressure, and
>provide a strong bond all at once. That stuff.
>
>What is it? ;o)
>
>As always, any advice welcome... well, except clothing fashion, not that
>you dress badly or anything. I mean I don't even know who I'm speaking to.
>I seem to have forgotten I'm still speaking too. DOH!
>
>;o)
>
>Cheers,
>Kim.
Re: Fixing water damaged speaker cabs. [message #93916 is a reply to message #93915] Sun, 23 December 2007 11:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
dc[3] is currently offline  dc[3]
Messages: 895
Registered: September 2005
Senior Member
There's an epoxy-based product that the house restorers use to replace rotted
wood. Seems like it would work for you.

Here's one example:

https://www.ndic.com/systemthree/endrot_kit_order.asp

DC
Re: Fixing water damaged speaker cabs. [message #93926 is a reply to message #93916] Sun, 23 December 2007 18:04 Go to previous message
Kim is currently offline  Kim
Messages: 1246
Registered: October 2005
Senior Member
Thanks guys. I'll pass these on.

I'm especially a fan of Neil's homemade epoxy idea. Wood Fibre Glass. Given
the obvious strength and bonding power of such a thing it might be the ticket.

But I'll pass it all on and a plan will be made.

You guys do rock. Oh, and they're the same brand and range of speakers that
I used to mix with Paris on, so no, there's no real Paris link without making
something up...

....but it's audio. ;o)

Cheers,
Kim.


"DC" <dc@spammersinhell.com> wrote:
>
>There's an epoxy-based product that the house restorers use to replace rotted
>wood. Seems like it would work for you.
>
>Here's one example:
>
>https://www.ndic.com/systemthree/endrot_kit_order.asp
>
>DC
>
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